نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی
نویسندگان
1 دانشجوی دکتری پژوهش هنر، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران، ایران
2 دانشیار گروه پژوهش هنر، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران، ایران، نویسنده مسئول.
چکیده
کلیدواژهها
موضوعات
عنوان مقاله [English]
نویسندگان [English]
Fabric weaving stands as one of the oldest handicrafts in Syria. Hand-woven, Damascus brocade fabric is one of the world's most precious silk fabrics. Syria’s ancient textile industry developed during the Islamic era. In the past, the brocade fabric was used to decorate women’s clothes and in parts of men’s clothes. This fabric was commonly used in interior decoration for furniture covers, curtains, and luxurious decorations. However, its usage has declined in the current era as artificial silk threads have replaced natural silk threads. Nowadays, it is produced using industrial weaving machines.
There are two main styles of brocade fabrics, distinguished by their patterns. The first style showcases motifs influenced by different civilizations, descriptions of novels, and historical epics that were introduced to Syria through silk and trade exchanges. The other type is brocade fabric with motifs related to the elements in the environment of Damascus. It is divided into two types: A) brocade fabric with plant motifs inspired by nature, plants, and trees of Syria. B) Brocade fabric with geometric motifs inspired by Islamic art such as arabesque. This research focuses on the motifs of the second type.
Damascus brocade fabrics often feature woven geometric motifs that can be traced back to the emergence of Islam and arabesque art. These motifs, rooted in Islamic culture, hold meanings and symbols that reflect the vibrant history and civilization of Syria.
Damascene silk brocade fabrics are classified as an element of Syrian heritage; because fabrics containing different motifs and symbols are a cultural and social heritage that reflects the details of the life values of its time. The purpose of this research was to explore the meanings of selected motifs found in natural silk fabrics mixed with gold and silver. These motifs had not been previously investigated and are considered part of Syrian culture.
This research examines the cultural-Islamic significance of geometric arabesque motifs in Damascus brocade fabric. It employs Erwin Panofsky's iconological approach to answer the following questions:
What do arabesque motifs symbolise in Syrian brocade fabric?
Which motifs in Syrian fabric belong to Islamic culture and which are unique to Syria?
What is the value and importance of the designs placed on the meticulously woven silk fabric?
In this research paper, we explore a specific cloth with geometric arabesque motifs. This cloth is mentioned in Florence Oliveri's book and can still be found in Syrian markets. To understand the symbols of the selected artwork, three stages of description, analysis, and interpretation were conducted.
To understand the intrinsic meaning of brocade fabrics, the motifs are examined and digitally redrawn, followed by analysing each element individually and interpreting the inscriptions.
The presence of geometric arabesque motifs on silk fabrics carries cultural and Islamic significance, symbolising life, fertility, and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. The motifs of geometric arabesque art have cultural and religious meanings, which were determined during the interpretation stage. The components and whole motifs definitely rely on Quranic verses as a reliable reference.
The results of this research demonstrate the significant role of geometric arabesque designs in the beautiful Syrian brocade fabric, which can be categorised into two groups: one consists of the patterns that are the geometric evolution of an Islamic knot and are part of the overall culture of the Islamic world. The other one is a cultural addition to the main role like the sun and the Damascus rose in Syrian culture. Arabesque art motifs were found to possess cultural and religious meanings, with Quranic verses serving as the most reliable reference. In the contemporary Islamic era, Syrian textile artists and designers utilised geometric motifs to create visions abundant in symbols and principles.
The motifs have evolved to showcase a geometric composition, intellectual harmony, and symbolic unity while maintaining a variety of motifs. Geometric motifs depict symbolic and supplementary elements that arise from the philosophy of monotheism and sincerity in obeying and worshiping the Creator and are a means of expressing divine unity. In his works, the artist demonstrates a preference for creating general compositions that symbolise fertility, beauty, and modernity in life. Cultural and religious values deeply inspire the spiritual aspects of this artwork through obedience and understanding so wearing this fabric as a dress is an honor. Brocade textile is a precious fabric of silk with gold threads, which is seemingly associated with heaven. Islamic motifs on silk fabric hold significant value and are considered as dignified as the clothes of the people of heaven, as mentioned in the Holy Book of Muslims. This relevance highlights the significance of the profound meanings of the motifs of this exceptionally exquisite fabric and the need to preserve and revive it. The current research proposes to circulate this precious fabric in the textile industry to preserve its artistic values full of meanings and prevent its destruction. Geometric arabesque on Damascus brocade fabrics are very suitable for formal religious gatherings because of their monotheistic symbols.
کلیدواژهها [English]
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